Minnesota Gas Station Speakeasy

Shot and Directed for CNBC Make It

Cinematography + Director

Somewhere in the beverage case at the back of a Lakeville gas station, one of the cooler doors doesn't open onto anything cold.

You have to know which one, and you have to be willing to look like an idiot pulling on a refrigerator in front of strangers. Behind it the fluorescent light falls away, the floor turns to brick, and you come around a corner into a room with a fireplace, a bathtub, chandeliers hung off a vaulted ceiling, and no television anywhere in it. Almost nothing in that room is a reproduction. The furniture and the fixtures and the glass were all sourced old, which is the whole difference between a space that references the 1920s and a space that convinces you it survived them.

Forty feet away somebody is paying for a Gatorade and will never know it's back there.

It's called The Farmer's Cellar. Counting the fuel, the groceries and the bar as a single business, that address brought in close to $5 million in its first year.

Tony Donatell built it, and he got there by buying a gas station in Eagan out of college and keeping the deli manager on staff because he had no idea how to run a kitchen. The store grew a lunch line. A burger restaurant went in next door. Then he gutted the auto repair shop behind that and turned it into a whiskey bar you reach by walking through the burger place. By the time a struggling station owner in Lakeville called and asked him to come do something about his building, Donatell had already run the experiment once and knew exactly what he was going to do.

His own summary: "We basically turned a gas station into a restaurant that happens to sell gas."

I was DP on the CNBC Make It piece about him, part of their Millennial Money series. The coverage problem was the reveal. A room that's designed to disappear doesn't automatically read as hidden on camera, because the audience has no body in the building and no walk to make. The fix was to spend real coverage on the parts nobody would think to shoot: the pump island, the cooler line, the drop ceiling, and the fluorescent aisle. Establish the building as unremarkable, then break it. The interview was lit to match the bar rather than the store, so the two halves of the piece stay visually separate, and the cut between them does work on its own.

Editorial documentary shooting rewards the same instincts brand work does: read the location fast, protect the subject's ease on camera, and build coverage that gives the edit options. Donatell talks for a living and runs a floor for a living, which meant the day moved at his pace and the camera had to keep up rather than the reverse.

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